Prague - 24/3 - 27/3/2012

Prague, Day 1:

Praha… Bohemia’s magical “Golden City” has enchanted visitors with its bridges, cathedrals, gold-tipped towers and church domes mirrored in the surface of the swan-filled Vltava River for over ten centuries. It certainly had that affect on us.


I’d been wanting to go to Prague for ages now, hearing all about the beauty of this Czech Republic capital, so when it was finally time to visit, I was nervous – I felt like I had finally landed that date with my high-school crush. Would it live up to expectation?? Lucky for me, Prague and I have fallen deeply, madly in love.

Almost undamaged by WWII, Prague's compact medieval centre remains a wonderful mixture of cobbled lanes, walled courtyards, cathedrals and countless church spires all in the shadow of her majestic 9th century castle.

Prague is also a modern and vibrant city full of energy, music, cultural art, fine dining and special events catering to the independent traveller's thirst for adventure.

Before heading out on our central-European adventure, Brett and I did quite a bit of research. After a few schoolboy errors on our Lisbon trip, we wanted to be totally and utterly prepared for Prague. Preparation included reading countless articles on the culture, people, language, must-see’s, and of course, the typical traps tourists fall victim to. We were armed with (too much) information and excited for the trip.

Travel Tip: A lot of articles I read about Czech people and their cultures were completely outdated. Reading about how they can be cold, unfriendly, and not very helpful to tourists, I was apprehensive about mingling with the locals from the start.

Fortunately, almost every single Czech that we met was beyond friendly, super nice, funny, and eager to give advice and assistance without us even asking (we are assuming it is generational with the shift from communism – we found the older locals weren’t quite as friendly as the younger). Was so wonderful to see and to experience, and we were made to feel incredibly welcomed.

The flight to Ruzyne Airport from London (Gatwick) was about an hour and a half – just enough time to study our language flash cards with a few common Czech phrases.

Travel Tip: I was really nervous about the language in Prague (Czech), since it was so different from anything I’d ever learned before. We made flash cards with a few common phrases we knew we’d be using a bit (“Two more beers, please”). We barely ever had to use them. English was spoken almost everywhere, and while it is nice to attempt to speak the local language, their alphabet is so different, I ended up botching the pronunciation almost every time, so I soon gave up. It does help though, to know the names of the districts (Old Town, New Town, Castle, etc.) so you can recognize them on signs and maps.

Good to know:
Old Town = Stare Mesto
Prague Castle = Prazsky Hrad
Charles Bridge = Karluv Most
National Theatre = Narodni Divadlo
Wenceslas Square = Vaclavske Namesti
Old Town Square = Staromestske Namesti
Lesser Town/Lesser Quarter = Mala Strana

Prague is one hour ahead of the UK, so we arrived at around 7.30pm. The airport is about 30 minutes from the centre of town. If you are going to get a cab from the airport, be sure you take care to negotiate price up front. Taking a cab from the airport is risky, as about 99% of the time you will be ripped off.

Travel Tip: There is one reputable cab company in Prague, and it is AAA. If you are going to use a cab, be sure it’s one of theirs.

After reading all the scary cab stories, Brett and I decided to book a transfer in advance. We used Prague Airport Shuttle, after reading countless great reviews on Trip Advisor. For 600Kč’s, we were picked up right at the arrivals gate by our driver Andrew (fabulous Canadian man who came out to visit for 3 weeks in 1994 and never left!), and taken straight to our hotel, no muss no fuss. Along the way, Andrew gave us tips and tricks of the city, much of which confirmed a lot of what we had read and researched prior (Things to see, the taxi traps, etc.). Was a wonderfully easy way to get to the hotel.

Travel Tip: A cab from the airport into the center of town shouldn’t be more than 600Kč. Cabs have been known to charge up to double that! So take care. There is also a pretty easy public transportation route that gets you right into town, bus 119 to the green line, but since we weren’t yet familiar with the metro system, we decided to go direct, then take public transport back to the airport once we were more familiar with our surroundings.)

We were staying at the Ibis Wenceslas Square. While it’s still about a 10 minute walk from the actual square, we were very happy with the location, its close proximity to the metro (IP Pavlova is only a block away), and the fact that we could walk anywhere easily from here.

Travel Tip: Prague is not a very large town, in that you can walk almost everywhere (safely, too!). We didn’t actually use public transportation until day 3. Do keep in mind, though, almost everywhere you walk you are walking on cobblestones and uneven ground, so your legs and feet get tired much faster. Be sure to bring shoes with good support.

We checked in with absolutely no problems (so much nicer than our hotel catastrophe in Lisbon!). The hotel chain Ibis is totally acceptable – nothing extravagant, but a comfortable bed and a warm shower is all Brett and I really need.

Oh, and a bottle opener in the bathroom – classic! We quickly freshened up, and headed out to explore the town!

We walked for a good 30 minutes until we were as far north as we could be without crossing the river. We walked through New Town, the youngest and largest of the five independent districts that make up modern-day Prague… although not really ‘new’, since New Town was founded in 1348. A major part of New Town is Wenceslas Square, which is really more of a boulevard than a square. You’ll find shops, restaurants, markets, and even a Marks and Spencer’s! We were quite surprised to find out how many familiar shops we did see in Prague.

Making a mental note to come back and explore later, we continued north through to Old Town.

Travel Tip: After our trip to Lisbon, I realised how much we needed a compass to make our way around a new city – especially without being able to use Google maps on our phones. I got Brett one as a gift, and it was indispensable during this trip.

We never left home without it. We studied the map and basic layout of the city of Prague before we left, too, so even before we set out exploring, we knew which direction most of the districts were and could easily find our way around using a map and a compass. We’re so old-school! ☺

Now, the thing about Prague that I cannot stress enough is that everything – everything – is beautiful. You can’t turn a corner without seeing ridiculously extravagant and gorgeous architecture.

So while Brett and I were making our way through the winding streets and alleys, we were constantly amazed and surprised at all of the beauty we were seeing around us.

Looking back through the photos, they don’t even come close to capturing the magic of this city.

Old Town is home to what I thought was the most beautiful of all of Prague’s buildings, the Church of our Lady Before Tyn. This church is s a dominant feature of Old Town and has been the main church of this part of the city since the 14th century.

About 10pm we were getting hungry, so decided to pull into a restaurant for a quick bite. Our first Czech food experience!

Travel Tip: One thing to note, is that there is still indoor smoking in Prague. Pack accordingly – your clothes will be ripe with cigarette smoke by the end of an evening.

We stumbled into a little bistro-type restaurant, Kavarna Tobruk, and ordered pasta (not quite as quintessentially Czech as we wanted, but good old comfort food after a long day of traveling). The waiter was super friendly, even though the kitchen was closing in five minutes.

The menu was in both English and Czech, which made us happy. (It’s good knowing what you are ordering.) The food was cheap (170Kč’s for a big plate of pasta), the beer was good, the wine was even better. Bellies full, and with a little buzz on, we headed back out to find out where the action was.

We ended up back in Old Town and stumbled into a little pub/pizza parlour along one of the back alleyways called Giallo Rossa. Smokey and dark, we cozied up to the bar, ceiling covered in bills from all around the world, and ordered a few drinks from Jon (pronounced Yon, as the ‘j’ is a ‘y’ sound in CR). Small as this world is, turns out he lived a few years in Manly, where Brett was born, so we spent a good hour chatting about the good old days back in Australia.

Promising to come pay a visit the following day for some pizzas, we thanked Jon for his hospitality and were on our way.

Travel Tip: Jon gave us some good advice about money in Prague. First off, Czech Republic is not on the Euro, they have their own money, Czech Crowns, or Czech Koruna (Kč). Converting Kč’s into USD: 600Kč = roughly $30. Move the decimal point one to the left and chop in half. For pounds, move the decimal and chop in thirds.

According to Jon, often at restaurants, you will get your change as a bunch of coins… many tourists just leave the coins as a tip thinking it can’t be much (which is why some folks give you all coins as change) but take care – just like in the UK with pounds or EU with euros, some of these coins can buy you a beer (or two!) in Prague.

Also to note, be careful when using money exchange shops in Prague. We read many articles stating that you will get ripped off at most of these places. If you can, use ATMs whenever possible, or get a Capital One credit card, one of the few credit cards offered that charges zero foreign transaction fee! It's wonderful.

At this point it was nearing 1am, so we made our way back to our hotel for a good night’s sleep, in preparation for a big day of exploring!

Travel tip: Tipping in Prague – usually you leave about 10%. When paying with a card, the machine doesn’t typically give you the option to leave a tip, so be sure you carry enough cash with you to be able to leave something to thank your server.

Prague, Day 2:

Big day of exploring today!

Brett and I grabbed some breakfast at the hotel, which was an amazing assortment of authentic Czech breakfast foods – yum! (Was included in our holiday package, and we were very impressed!)

Also included in our package was a Gray Line boat tour along the Vltava River, so we headed into town to get our tickets from the Grey Line booth… along the way, we wandered through Wenseclsas Square, this time during the daylight, where we stumbled upon all sorts of fun little stalls – blacksmiths, meat on spits, crafts, arts, food, candy – that were set up along the streets. Taking in all the sights and smells, Brett and I knew we were in for a few days of fabulousness.

Once in Old Town, there was even more activity – stalls and shops erected all throughout the square, in celebration of Easter! What brilliant timing on our part (completely accidental!).

With about 40 minutes until our boat departed (tours leave every hour on the hour at Dvořákovo Quay, located between Čechův Bridge and Štefánikův Bridge), we decided to partake in the festivities, and grabbed a beer and a mulled wine from one of the many stalls.

We sat back and enjoyed our beverages while soaking up some of that beautiful sunshine.

Eventually we made our way towards the pier, and stopped at a little café restaurant for a quick espresso before boarding – big mistake. We paid close to 400Kč’s for two double espressos – that’s $20USD!

If you order before seeing a menu, this can sometimes (but rarely!) happen. Because we were in a hurry, I think they saw us as moving targets to charge whatever they want. When we spoke to some locals about this later, they told us we should have complained, and they would have reduced the cost. Keep this in mind if the same thing happens to you.

Finally down at the pier, we jumped on the boat – a pretty big, 2-story cruiser – and sat back to enjoy a nice informational tour about the city we would be calling home for the next few days.

Unfortunately, apart from the beautiful views of the city, this tour was a complete waste of time. There was some sort of narration happening over a "loud" speaker, but I'm pretty sure it wasn’t in English, and it wasn’t even audible (so who knows, maybe it was in English!).

Fortunately there were menus on the table, so Brett and I cracked on with a few drinks and a plate of "nachos" (Doritos and sour cream) and enjoyed the beautiful views while trying to guess what the different sites were.

Travel tip: There are a TON of companies offering boat tours – some of which are probably really fun. I just wouldn’t recommend the Grey Line tour. Check out reviews on Trip Advisor to find out which are good. The views were stunning from the water, though, so definitely worth looking into!

After the tour, we decided to walk across the famous Charles Bridge and over to the West bank of the river. This bridge is photographed probably more than anything else in Prague, and is instantly recognizable.

Its construction started in 1357, and during the day you will find swarms of tourists, artists, and street performers lining the bridge. Absolute fun. Great photo ops of both sides of the river, as well.

Crossing over to Lesser Town (which i wish we had explored further, i really enjoyed it over there!), Brett and I stopped in for lunch at a cute authentically Czech restaurant, where I ordered Goulash in a bread bowl – basically my perfect meal.

In the Czech Republic, goulash is usually made with beef and served with bread dumplings, typically accompanied by beer. Brilliant. I ordered the chicken goulash, and it was absolutely delicious.

Travel tip: Some quintessential foods to try while in Prague: Goulash, dumplings, and Trdelnik. You will not be sorry!

Full of goulash and beer, we made our way up the hill to Prague Castle.

This castle is the location where the Kings of Bohemia, Holy Roman Emperors and presidents of Czechoslovakia and the Czech Republic have had their offices, as well as the home of the Czech Crown Jewels.

We were shocked to discover that Prague Castle is the biggest castle in the world (according to Guinness Book of Records the biggest ancient castle) at about 570 metres in length and an average of about 130 metres wide.

Once we saw it, we weren’t surprised – this wasn’t a castle, it was a complete neighbourhood of churches, palaces, halls and gardens and one of the most beautiful cathedrals we’ve ever seen, whose architecture represent virtually every style of the last millennium.

Don’t miss the changing of the guards, which happens every day at noon in the front courtyard.

We made our way around the cobblestoned steps, necks craned looking skyward the entire time. We stopped at a café in one of the gardens for a (very expensive) beer, and headed back down into town. We didn’t actually tour the inside of any of the castle (it was too nice a day to be stuck inside for hours!), but you can find ticket prices and opening times here.

The night before, Brett had seen there was a Dali Museum located just off Old Town square, so we headed there next, as Brett is a HUGE Dali fan. Turns out, it’s in the same museum as the Mucha Exhibit, which was recommended to us by multiple people – brilliant!

We spent a good hour viewing some gorgeous artwork. If you like Art Nouveau, you must know and love Mucha, and you must see the selection of over 100 paintings, photographs, charcoals, lithographs and personal memorabilia of this brilliant Czech artist, whose work is instantly recognizable.

All arted out, we headed back to our hotel to freshen up before our Ghost Tour in the evening! We grabbed a bite to eat at a Mexican restaurant a block away from our hotel, Banditos, that was recommended to us by our cab driver, and was FABULOUS. We really hadn’t had that authentic of Mexican food since our honeymoon in Mazatlan, so we were happy campers. Highly recommend it.

We had booked a ghost tour in advance, and not being 100% sure where the meeting point was (we had an address, a map, and a compass!), we gave ourselves an hour to get to the start of the tour (was told it was a 25 minute walk). We were somehow still late. Yes, we got lost. Twice. And then we ended up following the wrong tour guide, which was awkward for everyone.

Eventually we got on the right tour, and we were off!

Following our fantastic guide Simon around the streets of Old Town, hearing spooky stories and seeing strange haunts that we wouldn’t have noticed without a tour guide. It was fabulous. Brett and I are HUGE ghost tour fans. And the city of Prague has so much dark history, it’s the perfect way to learn some of the secret underground stories of a town. The best bit about the tour is when they take you down into the underground, below the clock tower that is home to the Astronomical Clock.

Lanterns in hand, we descended into these ancient cellars, catacombs, and hidden rooms dating back to the 12th century. A glimpse into life well before the modern city was built above it. We were able to see portions of the ancient walls of buildings that had lined this street hundreds of years ago. We saw some old windows, cooking areas, creepy wells, and an old prison pit where people were left to die of starvation (and cannibalism). We saw dates that had been scratched into these ancient walls by prisoners who were probably awaiting their executions. Creepy stuff that of course was amazing to see.

Travel tip: We booked our tour through McGee’s Ghost tours, which came very highly recommended on Trip Advisor. There are several different tours you can choose from, but be sure to choose one that takes you below the city – this was by far the best bit of the tour.

The tour is nightly at 7 and 9pm, and during the summer they have a tour at 10pm as well. The tour lasts about 70 minutes, and the add-on underground at the end lasts an additional 30 minutes. Perfect amount of time for a tour – any longer and your feet really do start to ache. The cost was reasonable, too, about $19pp. Check out the video on the site and you’ll see Simon, our tour guide!

The tour ended around 11pm, and because we wanted an early start the next day, we decided to have a quick drink at the nearest pub before heading home. Lucky for us, it was at this very pub that we found our new favourite beer . It’s called 1446, and is an unfiltered amber lager brewed at the mini brewery U Medvidku in the center of Prague, which is the only place in Prague where you can drink this beer. It was seriously the most amazing beer I’ve ever tasted.

What a way to end day 2 in Prague!

Prague, Day 3:

We knew we’d be heading a bit farther out with our exploring today, so we decided to go with public transportation! Prague has an amazing and comprehensive system, made up of an underground, tram, and bus routes, which means almost every inch of this city is accessible by public transport. Amazing!

While we didn’t take advantage of the bus or tram system, we did utilize the tube. It’s such an easy system to get familiar with very quickly, consisting of just three lines designated by letters and represented by colour: Green Line A (Dejvická - Depo Hostivař), Yellow Line B (Zličín - Černý Most), and Red Line C (Letňany - Háje)

Travel tip:

You have four options for tickets on the tube:
- 24 Kč - Limited Ticket - Valid for 30 minutes on all public transport, transfers allowed.
- 32 Kč - Basic Ticket - Valid for 90 minutes on all public transport, transfers allowed.
- 110 Kč - Valid for 24 hours on all public transport, transfers allowed. (This is what we did)
- 310 Kč - Valid for 72 hours on all public transport, transfers allowed. (Unless you are riding a LOT, which you won’t need to since walking is the best way to get anywhere, this ticket is not your best deal)

In order to pay with a card, you have to go to the ticket window. Both times we purchased tickets, the ladies spoke English. Once you receive your ticket, be sure you validate it in the little yellow box with the arrow, or you can get a huge fine. This stamps the ticket to let inspectors know when your time starts. This is the only time you really need your ticket out, but keep it on you at all times. Great that it’s a semi-honour system… just don’t get caught without a ticket!

We took the tube down to Muzeum, which is at the top of Wenceslas Square, where we jumped out so I could get a Trdelnik. I died a little bit when I ate it, it was that good.

We did a bit of shopping, where Brett and I both scored sweet deals on leather jackets – woo hoo! Then it was back on the metro and heading down south, because at 1pm, we had a BREWERY TOUR booked!

The Staropramen Brewery seemed to be the closest brewery to central Prague when doing my brewery-research (which included sampling at home, of course), and the beer was a popular one among locals – perfect! We arrived a bit early, so were led into the bar area and used our tokens prior to the tour to sample some of the goods. This beer was great! After finishing our brews, we started the tour. Extremely well organized and modern, the tour is self-guided through various rooms with videos and audio, and full of great information.

Lasting about 40 minutes, you get an inside look into the history of the brewery, a reconstruction of the old laboratory where the magic happened, a large room where you are actually able to touch and smell hops plants, and then finally, a sample bottling factory where the labels are placed on the bottles and they are packed up.

Very thorough and comprehensive tour, but let’s be honest – when do we get to drink the stuff again?

After the 40 minutes were up, we made our way back into the bar where we could buy a beer for just 35 Kč’s, or $1.75.

Yes please! 

Brett and I took full advantage of the price and continued to crack on with Granats (yum) and their special Unfiltered Lager which has yet to be exported, only available at the brewery.

We made friends with the barkeeps, who were two of the most friendly and charming people we’d ever met. We tasted barley that had been roasted to different variants. We even snuck behind the bar for  a happy snap. ☺

Drunk and happy, we knew we needed food to soak up the alcohol, so we headed around the corner to the brewery restaurant for some lunch. Brett got pork and dumplings, and I got a roasted trout. We both got more beer. The food here wasn’t great, and really neither was the service – we had been spoiled by our friends at the brewery – but the beer was amazing so we were happy.

From here, we decided to go check out the Dancing House, since we were relatively close (just a tube stop away, Anděl‎ to Karlovo náměstí‎), so we headed there next.

Originally named Fred and Ginger (after Fred Astaire and Ginger Rogers – the house resembles a pair of dancers) the house stands out among the Baroque, Gothic and Art Nouveau buildings for which Prague is famous.

Others have nicknamed it "Drunk House". It’s just a lovely piece of architecture that you have to see while in Prague.

Ready for some dinner, we freshened up at the hotel and headed out for our final night on the town. We had seen a little restaurant tucked away in a back alley while on our ghost tour the night before, and made a mental note to head there for our final dinner… after an HOUR of ducking through streets and alleyways trying to find the place, we finally stumbled accidentally upon it, and we are so happy we did.

It’s called Pizzeria Ristorante Giovanni (Kozna 11 | Praha 1, Prague, Czech Republic), and it’s just perfect. Compact and cozy, with shabby chic walls and eccentric décor, this place had great personality. The food, wine, beer, and ambiance were all exceptional (minus the table of chain smokers sitting just behind us – ick).

I think our waiter was a little rude, but apart from that (and the smoke), this place was a gem – HIGHLY recommended. Brett ordered the lamb and claimed it was the best he’d ever had. I ordered a seafood pizza, and was very reluctant to give Brett even a bite, it was that good.

The wine flowed freely, and we ended the meal with a chocolaty smooth espresso. Perfect.

We headed out around 11pm and over to Chapeau Rouge (all in Old Town) where a friend recommended we go for a fun drink. This place was great!

Again, eccentric décor, younger crowd, cheap beer with Absinth the star of the drinks menu… dance floor downstairs pumping unrecognizable tunes. We drank and danced and explored and made fun of the “know-it-all” Americans sitting next to us… was an absolutely wonderful end to the evening, and to our last night in Prague.

Prague, Day 4:


Well, last night's fun meant this morning’s fuzzies. And yes, we woke up a bit worse for wear. But, our flight wasn’t till 10pm, so we had a whole day of opportunity ahead of us. Coffee, coffee, orange juice, water, coffee, and we’re off.

First things first, and that is finding a place to get a Thai massage. Our bodies were aching from all the cobblestoned-walking, and we knew that we had earned a bit of TLC. There are a ton of massage parlors along Wenceslas Square, but they are all so touristy, so we tried finding some places on the outskirts of Prague. After two failed attempts, we threw in the towel and headed back to the main square, where we knew we’d get a sure thing.

Lucky for us though, on one of our failed massage scouts, we stumbled upon the most amazing restaurant located in what looked to be suburban Prague, called Aromi (Manesova 78/442, Prague 12000).

Welcomed in with big greetings and open arms by two gentleman at the door, we knew we had found someplace special.

It was quite fancy, as folks looked to be enjoying a lunch break away from the office. A large table was set up in the middle of the room holding an assortment of bottles of wine, champagne, water (still/sparkling), some parmesan cheese, prosciutto ham straight from the bone… we were brought roasted chick peas, bread and almond butter, along with tap water as we looked at our menus.

The table next to us was interested in the fish, so the waitress brought out a platter holding all the restaurant's offerings, including a live lobster. Intense!

On the far side of the room, a couple of men in suits had ordered fish cooked in salt, so the waiter brought it out and began what can only be described as a dinner show with how he was cleaning and preparing the fish for their consumption. Another table in the corner had a similar experience, with two wait staff simultaneously deboning fish at their table prior to serving. It was so much fun to watch all the hubbub around us.

We weren’t really that hungry, and to be honest, the prices were higher than we were hungry (about 300 - 500Kcs for any dish) so Brett got a salad and I ordered a fish soup. When the food arrived, it was absolutely beautiful. And it tasted delicious. We were so sad we didn’t know about this place earlier, as we would have come much hungrier. If this was the service at lunch, we’d love to see what stops they pull out for dinner service!

Back to massage. We finally found a place at Wenceslas Square called Thai Paradise,  offering a 60 minute Thai massage for only 800 Kc’s (about $40).

Upon entry, the place looked clean, full of customers (at least we knew it wasn’t shady, like some of the places we popped into on the outskirts of town), with ladies lined up ready to work out all our kinks. The massage was amazing, and well worth the $40.

I could have gone for another hour, but we had things to do, places to see!

Relaxed and happy, we headed back outside feeling much more keen to walk a few more hours after the TLC we had just given our bodies. Now, what to do with the rest of our final day?

Our cab driver suggested we check out the lesser-known castle while in Prague, Vyšehrad. It was probably built in the 10th century, on a hill over the Vltava River, and was the original royal home before Prague Castle was built.

Situated within the castle is the Basilica of St Peter and St Paul, as well as theVyšehrad Cemetery, containing the remains of many famous people from the Czech history, among them Antonín Dvořák, Bedřich Smetana, Karel Čapek, and Alphonse Mucha. The cemetery was outstanding… I’ve never seen one like it. All above-ground tombs and memorials, most of which were works of art in themselves. The eeriness of the place was overwhelming.

We wandered the castle grounds, along the outside wall where views stretching up and down the Vltava River took our breath away. We took many time-outs here, not only to take in these spectacular views, but also because holy hell our feet hurt.

Four days of walking in boots on cobblestone streets really wears you out, even with a Thai massage under the belt.

Once we’d had our fill of the castle, we headed back towards our hotel to grab our bags and make our way to the airport. We decided to stop for one final meal close to our hotel, and stumbled upon a restaurant called Matylda. This was serendipitous, as this is the name that Brett and I have chosen if we ever have a little girl! We thought, PERFECT. Even better, they had a non-smoking section upstairs, so Brett was able to enjoy a nice steak, and me another pizza, without inhaling all those toxins. Wonderful. The food wasn’t great, but the waiter was so nice, the place was just lovely, and the beer and wine were top-notch.

We headed back to our hotel, and since we had bought the 24-hour pass for the metro, decided to take public transportation back to the airport.

Travel tip: It is SO easy to get to the airport using the metro. Simply take the green line all the way to the end (Dejvická), go outside and right across the street to the bus stop, where Bus 119 will take you straight there. Your metro ticket is also good on the bus, so it’s virtually free to get there.
You can also, from the metro station, take the Airport Express (bus will say AE), but that’s an additional ticket cost.

It’s just as easy to get into town from the airport as it is getting back, but because we weren’t yet familiar with the public transportation system, we didn’t go this route. Wish we had now, seeing how easy it was! But then, we never would have met Andrew and he was just lovely.

Both Brett and I are absolutely enchanted with Prague. Looking through the photos today, I’m disappointed – they just don’t capture the essence of this beautifully artistic city in a way that gives it any sort of justice.

The sights, the food, the bohemian beer, the locals – everything about this city grabs your heart and wraps it in a warm layer of gooey goodness. We were truly sad to be leaving, but we found solace knowing that we will be back. Prague is such a charming place that has truly captured our hearts!

Here is our list of must-see’s while here, collected from friends’ recommendations as well as our own online research, in case it helps inspire any of you!


• Prague Castle This, the biggest ancient castle in the world, according to Guinness World Records, rises like a dream above the city offering beautiful views of the areas below. Also on site is the St. Vitus Cathedral with its lookout tower, the Castle Picture Gallery [54], several palaces and museums and the beautiful Royal Garden, among others. You can also watch the Presidential Guard, and the changeover of the guards on duty on the hour. A Prague castle ticket is 350 CZK and an audio guide costs a further 350 CZK.

• Charles Bridge connects Old Town with Lesser Town. Its construction started in the 14th century and it is one of Prague's most beautiful structures. During the day, it is a bustling place of trade and entertainment, as musicians busk and artists sell their paintings and jewelry. Try catching the sunrise from the bridge – we never made it up that early, but I heard it’s pure magic.

• Old Town (Staré město)— Prague's historic centre includes numerous historic buildings and monuments, most notably the famed Astronomical Clock (Orloj), the pure Gothic Týn Church, the mural-covered Storch building, and the Jan Hus monument. Nearby, the Estate Theatre is a neoclassical theatre where Mozart's opera Don Giovanni was first performed. Old Town features many historical churches (St. James Church, Church of Our Lady before Týn among others) and some other interesting historical buildings like the Old Town Hall.

• Josefov— This historic Jewish ghetto is interesting for its well preserved synagogues. The Old New Synagogue (Czech: Staronová synagoga) is Europe's oldest active synagogue and it is rumoured to be the resting place of the famed Prague Golem. Another interesting synagogue is the Spanish Synagogue, a highly ornamental building of Moorish style. Other attractions include the Old Jewish Cemetery, which is the oldest in Europe, and Kafka's house. The Old New Synagogue is NOT a part of the Jewish museum, so if you wish to see everything, it is recommended that you buy a combined pass to all of the Jewish attractions for 480 CZK.

• New Town (Nové město)— New Town was established as an extension of Old Town in the 14th century, though much of the area has now been reconstructed. The main attraction here is Wenceslas Square, a rectangular commercial square with many stalls, shops and restaurants. At the top of the square is the National Museum which is well worth a look (see below). Midway down this historic boulevard, one finds trendy discos and Art Nouveau hotels, as well as quaint parks and arcades, while just off the beaten path are some wonderful panoramic views (Henry Tower), romantic restaurants and the dazzling, Disney-colored Jubilee Synagogue.

• Lesser Town (Malá strana)— Across the Vltava River from the city centre and leading to the castle, this quarter also offers beautiful streets and churches (of which St. Nicholas Church is the most renowned). The Lennon Wall, which used to be a source of irritation to the communist regime, is also found here, near a Venetian-like canal with water wheel and close to the Charles Bridge. (this was my second-favourite of the districts!)

• Infant of Prague This famous statue of Christ, known also as the Holy Infant of Prague, is among the most widespread religious images in the world. The original statue can be seen in the Church of Our Lady Victorious in Lesser Town. (we didn’t see this)

• Loreta A beautiful Baroque convent in the Lesser Town.

• Strahov Monastery A monastery on the mountain. Worth a visit for both its picture gallery and its notable Renaissance library.

• Prague Dancing House (Fred and Ginger Building) — One of the most fascinating architectural expressions of Prague. Accessible from Karlovo náměstí metro station.

• Mucha + Dali Museum A museum of the works of Dali, and Czech artist Alfons Mucha.

• Petřínská rozhledna A smaller version of the Eiffel Tower on the top of Petrin Hill overlooking Prague. Climbing the tower costs 100 CZK for a standard ticket or 50 CZK for discounts. (We saw from afar, after hearing it was a bit pricey, and the only thing in that area, really, to see)

• Prague Giant Metronome A huge monument erected to replace the Stalinistic monument that preceded it (again, oogled this from afar)

• Memorial to the 1989 Velvet Revolution A simple brass plaque at 20 Narodni. From Cafe Louvre, walk toward the river. You will enter an archway, and after just a few meters, look at the wall on the left.

• The Lennon Wall (John Lennon Wall) A wall located just off the Charles Bridge in Lesser Town. Once a normal wall, since the 1980s it has been filled with John Lennon-inspired graffiti and pieces of lyrics from Beatles songs.

xo,
B&M

* As with all our reviews, this is simply our opinion. We simply hope to inspire fellow travelers and/or help others avoid the traps and pitfalls we encounter! If you have any questions or concerns, don't hesitate to contact us! *

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